December 2009 Newsletter

Important AFRICA Information for Tour Operators

Botswana - Ker & Downey

• Camp Closing Dates
• New website - www.kerdowneybotswana.com
• Paul Molesang running in New York Marathon to raise money for Bana Ba Letsatsi

• Refurbishment well under way with updates. Re-opening 1st April 2010
• New website to be launched in time to celebrate the New Year

• Refurbishment of Safari Lodge
• Special Christmas Offer

• Fabulous Client feedback on recent Uganda trip
• Bulago Island opening April 2010 on Lake Victoria

• 2010 - 60 years of Norman Carr Safaris
• Luangwa Forever

• Special Offers
• Camp to re-open 1st April 2010

• See the New Year in with a Blue Moon!
• Following the huge success of the Sindabezi Island refurbishment we have plans for some improvements at Tongabezi.

Educational trips are being planned for 2010 so if you would like any information and rates for any of them do register your interest with me and I will send the information to you.

We will look at having:

Uganda - March, May and October
Botswana - Pre Indaba and October
Jaci's - Pre and post Indaba and a combined Botswana / Falls trip in October
Zambia - April and October
Malawi - doors open on new Kaya Mawa in April and all are welcome. OPEN HOUSE! Further trips planned around Indaba and October possibly also added on to Zambia.

Honour Way News

I have just returned from a whirlwind of trips around the US marketing, Zambia hosting a wonderful educational trip there and WTM followed by a quick visit to Marrakech and am now catching up on months and months of backlog in admin. The bottom of the pile is in sight and I can't wait to put my feet up for what I think is a well deserved holiday on the 2nd January.

It has been an interesting year with many challenges to keep me busy and I have learned so much. Carolyn joined me and has worked wonders sorting out my database for me as well as slowly starting take on more responsibilities so we can really focus on more areas for next year.

I would like to thank you all for the support this year. It has been tough but I know that many of you have really stayed as loyal as possible to my clients who in turn have kept busy with improvements of quality and level of service for your guests but who have also tried to help things along with some amazing special offers out there too. Our educational trips have been enjoyed immensely and the various journalist visits have led to some wonderful articles.

Talking to so many of you everyone has hopes for an improved 2010 and I am pleased to hear things seem very busy.

I will be in touch again soon but for now I wish you all a wonderful festive season and all the very best for a good and successful 2010

Botswana

New York Bound
Ker & Downey Botswana's Paul Moleseng will be competing in next year's New York marathon in support of Bana Ba Letsatsi. Paul, better known for his guiding, will be joined by orphaned nineteen year old twins Itsing and Tirafalo Batsholelewang from Bana Ba Letsatsi and Fiona Miller the centre's coordinator

The twins are seasoned runners, albeit short distance (200 and 400m), and competed at the 2008 Junior Athletic Championships in Poland with Bana Ba Letsatsi's support. Itsing qualified for the 2009 Junior Athletic Championships and was once again sponsored by Bana Ba Letsatsi. They train at the Maun Athletic Stadium.

Both are former Moeti CJSS pupils and away from the track Itsing attends Maun Technical College where he is pursuing a BTec Construction and Tirafalo attends CITF (Construction Industry Trust Fund) (Plumbing) both sponsored by Bana Ba Letsatsi.

This initiative is made possible by the Somarela Fund and Bobbie Crosby.

New Website
Ker & Downey Botswana have launched their new website (www.kerdowneybotswana.com). The site has been designed as a brochure site and all images can be downloaded for easy printing.

Seasonal Camp Closures
Shinde closes 8th January and reopens 1st March 2010
Kanana closes 3rd January and reopens 1st March 2010
Okuti closes 10th February reopens 15th March 2010

Edo's Camp
Ker & Downey Botswana is pleased to announce the introduction of road transfers between Edo's Camp and Windhoek. These transfers take approximately five hours. Please contact Ker & Downey Botswana (info@kerdowney.bw) for rates and more details.

Kwara Transfer
Due to logistic constraints Ker & Downey Botswana has discontinued transfers between Kwara and Footsteps Across the Delta and Kwara and Shinde.

Safari Air
Please remember that guests travelling to Kanana Mokoro Trails and Footsteps Across the Delta are required to use Safari Air for operational reasons.

www.kerdowneybotswana.com

Malawi

Kaya Mawa has closed and it's all go. High excitement amongst all the staff as we embark on an ambitious refurbishment over the next four months. Sadly don't expect any glossy photos just yet.

We are making great progress on the two new houses, Madimba and Mainja. The new plunge pools are in and structural alterations made so all that remains is the wiring and the plumbing as we are putting in new bathrooms with solar geezers and a rather clever 24 hour power system utilising mains/solar and batteries. After 9 weeks of form filling and begging customs our first shipment of new baths and taps will be arriving soon.

We have been an 'eco' lodge since the start but we are always keen to improve on the old systems. One of our bug bears has been hot water. Technology when Kaya was first built didn't really have a commercially viable solar geezer that could be depended on, for the small business. Now it does. So we are breaking down all the wood burning boilers and replacing them with state of the art pressurized solar geezers guaranteed to give you piping hot water whenever you want and so doing our little bit to stop the destruction of the forests in Mozambique. The old dual power system we had in the rooms is also going. Fed up of 'lights out' at 10 o'clock we have bought a clever power system which will work on three levels to ensure that there is 24 hour power in the whole of the lodge utilising a combination of mains, solar and battery power and every light fitting being replaced with energy efficient low watt bulbs.

The rains so far have been kind with one good downpour clearing the air apart from that all we have is sun and a beautiful flat lake, with no guests around and all the staff knocking off at 2pm I guess I may have to get out on the water and do some wakeboarding!

www.kayamawa.com

South Africa

We thought you might like a sneak preview! We have completed a refurbishment at Safari Lodge - the kitchen has been redone and the roofs re-thatched - everything looks like new!! New furnishings for the main lodge arrived this week amongst which new ottomans for the rooms. The rooms were also repainted in our trademark blues and purples. The Safari Lodge Lady is nearly 10 - and she is looking glamorous and ready for the new year!

JACI'S SPECIAL SAFARI OFFER

Join us and explore the wonders of an African safari
with experienced field guides and welcoming staff

Book 3 nights or more and receive 25% off the Rack rates.
Included: game drives, meals and accommodation
Excluded: all drinks, transfers, game reserve entrance fees, gratuities etc.
* Valid until 31 March 2010.
* Specific Terms and Conditions of booking apply for this exceptional offer and only applies to new bookings.

www.madikwe.com

Zambia

We have just completed a fantastic educational trip in Zambia covering Tongabezi, Sindabezi Island, Sausage Tree Camp and Norman Carr Safaris and I have received such nice feedback that I wanted to share it with you. I know how special Zambia as a country is but here are the words from some who aren't quite as biaised...

Nicky works for Uyaphi in Cape Town:

"Having never been to Zambia before, you try to familiarize yourself geographically on maps and do your research, but nothing could've prepared me for what I was to experience. I was completely blown away! I now understand how people say Zambia is one of those 'bucket list' destinations, one you just have to experience for yourself.

The bush camps, luxury lodges, exquisite foods, and very friendly Zambian hospitality aside, what impressed me the most were the guides; I was amazed by their indepth, and what seemed like never-ending, knowledge and enthusiasm.

Sunset boat cruises, swimming in Devil's Pool, canoeing among crocs and hippos, Tiger fishing, enjoying a delicious barbeque ankle-deep in the Zambezi, and most importantly in great company, are fond memories which will stay with me forever. However, Tsetse flies and flying in small planes not so much.

Thank you so much for giving me this opportunity to experience it for myself."

Richard is a private guide from SA who had never been to Zambia before:

"I have just returned back home from an extraordinary 8 days in Zambia. WOW! I just can't wait to go back. Working as a private guide leading guests into some of Africa's most pristine wilderness areas, I feel Zambia has so much to offer in terms of a true safari experience. It is where it's situated geographically, that has given rise to a huge diversity of habitats, which support an abundance of wild life. What struck me most about Zambia were the many ways in which you could explore these beautiful wilderness areas. From canoeing and boating the Zambezi river in the Lower Zambezi, viewing it's plentiful wildlife coming down to drink, to bumbling around in an open game drive vehicle in search of its many mammals and to appreciate it's contrasts in habitats.

Then there is being able to get out on foot. There is no better place to do this then the Luangwa Valley. You really feel the bush under your feet and get up close and personnel with its natural environment. All my senses had once again been stimulated. I felt ALIVE!! This was where walking safaris was pioneered and still today you can explore this unbelievable area in the same way as Norman Carr first started exploring it. And then there were the camps we stayed in, authentic, rustic old style yet comfortable camps that brought you closer to nature. They did not remove you from the bush as so many new lodges today do. The food was healthy and tasty, and the people that were looking after us couldn't have done more to make our stay any nicer. I was back in the real bush, I felt I had gone back 20-30 years and was relieved that there were still places like this left."

Sausage Tree Camp has packed up for yet another year. The rains have set in, the African dust turned to mud, but at least the skies are crisp and clear, the leaves a shining green and new grass and new vegetation growth shooting up everywhere. The baby impala have been born and the little warthogs are busy running around with their tiny tails high in the air. Alan and Nicci Bonella (Camp Managers) will be returning for their third season at STC and all of our guides and camp staff have signed their 2010 contracts. We will be back in to make a start on camp opening in February and looking after our first guests on the 1st April.

Wild Dog: A pack of 30 wild dog were sighted in early Nov. including 13 puppies

Special Offers (RACK):
Low Season - $416.24pppn (min. 4 nights)
Shoulder Season - $581.25pppn (min. 4 nights)
High Season - $671.25pppn (min. 4 nights)

2010 is already shaping up to be a reasonable year, so please don't hesitate in making your bookings now, especially during April and May and the high season, where availability is already limited.

www.sausagetreecamp.com

Following the success of the Sindabezi rebuild, our project manager and builder extraordinaire Momo is back from Israel and ready to take on an even more daunting task. Over the next two years Momo will be in charge of a complete Tongabezi upgrade program. The first project is particularly exciting. A double storey Boat House will be sitting pretty on the Zambezi next to the jetty. This House will be used exclusively for relaxation, entertainment and private dining. With two private lounges, an intimate upstairs deck with Bedouin style seating as well as two private tables on the front deck the exclusive Boat House will be in high demand.

Mark Twain said that training is everything - and at Tongabezi we are not about to argue. Extensive staff education programs run throughout the year. Currently we have staff engaged in a Meg Coates Palgrave Flora course, a dozen key members of staff are supplementing their first aid training with an advanced medical instruction and Bob the famous Birdman continues to educate our guides in the finer details regarding the birdlife surrounding us. All ensuring that guests remain safe, entertained and just a little in awe of our attention to detail.

The moon, the stars and an ancient geological wonder
are conspiring with us to create a little enchantment.

We would like to invite you to come and celebrate our birthday with us

Join us on 31st December 2009 And/or 1st January 2010, when a Full Moon, the New Year and Tongabezi's 20th birthday coincide for a once in a lifetime occasion.

With complementary...

* Sparkling wine, canapes and the chance of witnessing a magical full moon bows at the Falls.
* Followed by a Gala dinner with special entertainment

Facts about a Blue moon:

• The definition of a Blue moon is when the same month has two full moons. (2nd December and 31st December 2009)
• New Years Eve blue moons occur about once a generation.

• God Father III premiered.
• The first "successful" test of what would become the World Wide Web took place.
• Iraq said they would never leave Kuwait.

www.tongabezi.com

Luangwa Forever

As part of our 60th anniversary celebrations we are proud to announce a new safari idea combining a "hands on" community and conservation experience with an unforgettable wild life adventure.

A chance to support the community work of NCS and make a real difference to the lives of the people and wildlife of the South Luangwa.

Luangwa Forever - 8 Nights
Valid: 15 May - 07 Nov 2010
From $4,500 per person including $300pp donation (not including flights).

3 nights based at Kapani Lodge visiting Yosefe School, the Kakumbi Health centre, the NCS tree planting project, a local workshop making hand made cards from recycled paper and ele dung, The South Luangwa Conservation Society and Chipembele Education centre plus afternoon and evening game drives followed by 5 nights in our remote bush camps.

The cost includes a private guide and vehicle for the community/conservation part of their safari, $300 per person donation towards conservation and community work in the South Luangwa, all meals and drinks, game viewing activities, national park fees and laundry.

Guests are invited to bring books for Yosefe School Library as well as sports and school equipment. There is a unique chance to support the life changing work of SEKA - a local theatre group working in HIV/Aids awareness raising. For an extra $250 guests can sponsor and attend a performance of the incredible musical drama - Sankani Moyo about Voluntary Counselling and Testing for HIV/Aids in one of the most remote rural villages.

As well as spending time in the company of some of Zambias finest guides, there is also a chance to meet Rachel McRobb - charismatic CEO of South Luangwa Conservation Society, Steve and Anna Tolan of Chipembele Wildlife Education Centre, and hear about the work of the Africa Wild Dog Conservation Project.

For more details of this pioneering new safari or the projects mentioned contact Kapani@normancarrsafaris.com

www.normancarrsafaris.com

Uganda

The Uganda Safari Company and Wildplaces are one and the same company. The Uganda Safari Company deals with all ground handling for Uganda and Wildplaces comprises Emin Pasha Hotel, Clouds, Semliki and Apoka and the upcoming addition of Bulago Island Lodge..

Here I would like to thank Catherine for some wonderful safari feedback from clients who travelled through Uganda with us. Catherine has also just been through on our October educational trip and was able to experience first hand everything her clients had raved about and agreed with the below wholeheartedly.

"Wow! What a holiday. Uganda was extraordinary. We loved it. If you haven't been, then you have to go. Astonishing wildlife experiences, beautiful and diverse scenery, superb lodges, great people and all of the arrangements worked like clockwork. We were glad to spend some time in this beautiful country rather than do a fly-in fly-out hit on the gorillas.

I thought I'd give you a bit of feedback so that you can pass it on to other hopeful travellers.

Semliki was a great start. Highly recommended and exceeded my (high) expectations. Great team and we were well looked after by Mohindu who is the assistant manager, head guide and chief bottle washer. We were the only two people there for our first two days and we were very well looked after. The tents are lovely and better than I expected. We were very comfy there and it was the perfect relaxing start to our trip. We even had a friendly baboon spider in the tent which had to be removed! The drive from Kampala was indeed just over 6 hours through very nice scenery. The scenery at Semliki is diverse and different to other places we have been. Similar in some respects to the Selous. We saw the shoebills on Lake Albert, went chimp tracking (heard them but didn't see them) in the forest, game drives including night drive and walking. This is not necessarily a place for big game (we knew this before we went) but we did see elephants (both forest and savannah), plenty of kob, warthog, waterbuck and buffalo. In time, as they start to stock with giraffe and zebra and the predator population starts to swell and show itself, this will be a major draw. However, you always see something different and this time we were treated to a close-up elephant experience over sundowners and a 3.5m rock python crossing the road. Colobus and redtail monkeys were also good to see. The birding is extraordinary and hugely enjoyable, a real highlight.

The drive to Ishasha again took about 6 hours (there is no way of getting anywhere quickly!) and again the scenery was lovely, passing the Rwenzori Mountains, past Lake George and Lake Edward and on to Ishasha where the camp had a delightful location by the river. We were only there one night but could easily have spent another night. We were fortunate to see the tree climbing lions (up a tree!). The Ishasha area is so much like the Serengeti, vast plains and a lot of kob, topi and buffalo. Our driver, Katembo (Jonah) was great fun, particularly in comparison with our guide, Emmanuel, in the Serengeti. He went the extra yard for us and made our long drives very enjoyable. We enjoyed his company throughout. I enjoyed helping him remove a fallen tree blocking the road on the way to Bwindi and it was good to see him again when we went back to Kampala on our return from Mnemba.

The drive to Bwindi is only about 60km as the crow flies but you have to go almost the entire way round the Bwindi Impenetrable (very apt name!) to get to Clouds. The journey took at least 7 hours but again the scenery was dramatic and really enjoyable. We could have connected by flights which would have cut down the travelling time but we would not have seen so much of the country, which we both really enjoyed.

The Clouds website does not do it justice. The location is stunning with the most amazing views (although we were greeted by hail and snow on our arrival, which was very humorous indeed!), the lodge is one of the best we have stayed in with superb accommodation, excellent food, high service levels and great hosts. Gary and Tamara are doing a terrific job and we are thinking of ways in which we might be able to support the nearby Nkuringo orphanage, with which Clouds is heavily involved. Georgie donated her walking boots! We were the only people in the lodge for the first two nights and it was like being in a very large and more luxurious version of home. We completely lucked out in that we were the only people gorilla tracking on our first day. We found the gorilla family in the buffer zone between the forest and farmland and so we had terrific views of the family in almost open country. What an experience. Georgie and I both agreed it was the best wildlife experience we'd ever had. Quite extraordinary. Caleb, the guide and his tracking team were brilliant and made our day very enjoyable indeed. Our second day was different but no less enjoyable. We had 7 in the group and tracked the family in deep forest. Different, but equally extraordinary. To be within a couple of feet of a fully grown silverback and equally its 3 month twin children is quite something. However, it is very tough and physically demanding. We were both fine as we're quite fit and managed it easily, but others will really find it quite difficult, especially given the combination of steep terrain, altitude, heat and hacking through the jungle. Definitely recommend full walking gear (trousers and long sleeve shirt), proper walking boots, long socks and gaiters to protect against mud, wet and safari ants, gloves (for the nettles and thorns), cap or hat, and a waterproof (although we didn't need this) etc. We didn't take any chances and were well kitted out but the people we were with on the second day must have been very uncomfortable.

We were glad to get the flight back from Kisoro to Kampala (we were done with road trips by this point!), however what a hairy flight! We were carrying a bit too much luggage (having our beach and diving stuff with us) with us but clearly the pilot was nervous about this so I offloaded most of our bags to Katembo who drove them back to Kampala for us. She also offloaded cargo she was carrying. We were lucky to have this option and others won't and so it will be really important for people to stick to their luggage weight limits and leave unnecessary stuff in Kampala if possible. Kisoro is clearly a dangerous airport, being at 1800m with mountains at either end of the runway. We had a tail wind on the downward sloping runway which meant that we only just managed to take off even without our luggage. We only weigh 80kg and 50kg respectively and two heavier people may have had issues. It was a bit hairy although getting back to Kampala early meant that we could visit a local artist (whose works are exhibited at Semliki and Clouds) in Kampala and we ended up commissioning a painting from him which hopefully will be a great memento of our honeymoon.

Emin Pasha was always going to be a bit of a disappointment when you come from wonderful game lodges with huge space to what is a small business hotel in a city. However, the rooms were well-appointed and perfectly comfortable and the gardens very pleasant. The Fez restaurant is seriously good and we had two excellent meals there, sitting at a garden table with some very nice wine."

www.wildplacesafrica.com

Fact of the Day - Animal Groupings

October newsletter answer - Thank you for all your answers. The correct answer to what we call a group of Rhinos is a CRASH of Rhinos.

Next month - What do we call a group of cheetahs?